Returning Home to Ashes: The Story of La Palma’s Resilience

A Landscape Transformed: The Aftermath of the Eruption

Two years after the devastating eruption of the Cumbre Vieja volcano on the Spanish island of La Palma, the landscape remains scarred and surreal. Photographer Jonathan Browning visited the island in January of the following year, drawn by the haunting question: What is it like to return home when the world around it has been reduced to ashes? The eruption, which lasted 85 days, spewed lava and ash across the southern region of La Palma, known as "La Isla Bonita" (The Beautiful Island). Thousands of homes and buildings were consumed by the fiery flows, leaving behind a trail of destruction and despair. Browning’s journey took him through a terrain that was both familiar and foreign, where the once-lush banana plantations and charming houses had been replaced by a vast, blackened expanse of solidified lava.

An Eerie Silence: The New Normal for La Palma’s Residents

Browning’s exploration revealed a landscape frozen in time. Some houses had been entirely swallowed by the lava, their remains hidden beneath the hardened rock. Others, miraculously spared, stood as empty shells, their doors locked or their access blocked by the treacherous terrain. The photographer described the lava field as “unstable and forbidden to walk on,” with hidden tunnels and jagged rock edges that posed a constant danger. Yet, amidst the desolation, there was an eerie heat radiating from beneath the surface, a reminder of the volcano’s lingering power. Browning likened the scene to “Mordor,” the fictional land of fire and ash from J.R.R. Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings. This otherworldly comparison captures the surreal and haunting beauty of the transformed island.

A Journey Through Uncharted Territory

Browning’s journey took him along a newly carved road that cut through the blackened landscape. As he cycled, he could feel the strange, oppressive heat emanating from the ground below. The air was thick with the aftermath of the eruption, and the silence was almost deafening. The once-thriving banana plantations, which had been a cornerstone of the island’s economy and culture, were now nothing more than a memory. Acres of fertile land had been transformed into a lifeless, worthless expanse of black rock. The photographer’s observations paint a vivid picture of a place that has been irrevocably changed, where the natural beauty of La Palma has given way to a harsh, unforgiving environment.

Hollowed Homesteads: The Impact on La Palma’s Residents

For the residents of La Palma, the eruption has left deep emotional and psychological scars. Many returned home to find their houses either destroyed or inaccessible, their lives uprooted by forces beyond their control. Those whose homes were spared faced new challenges, as some properties were looted or rendered unreachable due to the shifting terrain. The loss of community and the erasure of familiar landmarks have been particularly painful. The lava fields, now a constant reminder of the disaster, have become a barrier to rebuilding and moving forward. Browning’s photographs and account offer a glimpse into the lives of those who call La Palma home, their stories a testament to resilience in the face of unimaginable loss.

Echoes of the Eruption: Tourism and Recovery

Despite the devastation, La Palma is beginning to find a new sense of purpose. The island has gained unexpected attention through a Norwegian drama series on Netflix, which chronicled the disaster and its impact on the community. This exposure has drawn visitors eager to witness the volcano’s aftermath firsthand. Guided tours of the lava fields and the volcano itself have become a part of the island’s slowly recovering economy. While tourism brings much-needed income, it also raises questions about the ethics of disaster tourism. For some, these tours offer a way to honor the island’s resilience; for others, they serve as a painful reminder of what has been lost.

Rebirth and Reflection: La Palma’s Path Forward

As the people of La Palma navigate the long and difficult process of recovery, they are forced to confront the realities of living in a world reshaped by fire and ash. The island’s transformation is a stark reminder of nature’s power and the fragility of human existence. Browning’s visit and the subsequent attention La Palma has received highlight the importance of documenting and reflecting on such events. For those who have lost so much, the journey forward will be marked by both grief and hope. La Palma’s story is one of destruction and rebirth, a testament to the enduring spirit of a community determined to rebuild and reclaim their home, no matter what the future may hold.